The Basics of Moisturising
Moisture is the foundation of clear and healthy skin. When we talk about the moisture content of the skin, we mean the moisture content of the outer layer of the epidermis, the stratum corneum of the skin, where the moisture level should be about 13%. The moisture content of the deeper layers of the epidermis is 60%–70% and this area gets its moisture from the dermis, which is located below the epidermis. When the skin's moisture content is sufficient, its cornification process is maintained, which manages the skin's natural moisturising factor (NMF) and the skin remains balanced and, for example, does not become sensitive and dry. Balanced skin is soft, supple, plump and clear.
Because many external and internal factors can cause trans-epidermal water loss from the skin, it must be moisturised externally. However, there are a few misconceptions about moisturising the skin.
Moisturising the skin – hydrating vs. moisturising
The process of moisturising the skin is often misunderstood and therefore we need to make a distinction between the terms ‘hydrating’ and ‘moisturising’. Hydrating means adding water moisture to the skin. Aqueous products with humectants, such as essence and very light moisturisers are used for hydrating. The word moisturising, on the other hand, means preventing the water from evaporating from the skin. Facial oils or very rich moisturisers are used for this purpose. The lipids they contain prevent water from evaporating away from the skin. The skin needs both water and lipids, and there is no reason to be afraid of using oils as they do not clog the skin. Thus, moisturising the skin does not simply mean using a moisturiser on its own, and especially not a thick cream.
Moisturising the skin is very important if the weather is dry, cold or windy, or if you spend time indoors in an air-conditioned space. All these environmental factors increase the evaporation of moisture from the skin. Oily skin can also suffer from a lack of moisture, that is, surface dryness, which makes the skin feel dry, tight and scaly. Prolonged surface dryness can lead to various skin problems as it disrupts both enzyme activity on the skin and the cornification process responsible for moisturising and protecting the skin. Disorders of the cornification process thus weaken the skin's own protective mechanism.
The most common cause of tightness of the skin, despite moisturising, is surface dryness, i.e. dehydration. Most people are familiar with the sensation of tight skin, regardless of how greasy the skin itself is. This is a sign that the skin is suffering from a lack of water. This lack of water makes the surface of the skin thick and shield-like, stopping substances from being absorbed into it. A suitable analogy is dry, parched soil in a flowerpot: the water will sit on the surface of the dry and hardened soil before it is absorbed. But if the soil is already slightly moist, the water is absorbed immediately. It takes 1–2 weeks to revitalise dry skin. Several layers of essence containing mild acids have to be applied to the skin. The acids revitalise the skin's moisture content, meaning that the products gradually begin to be better absorbed, allowing the skin to become soft and supple again.
Proper application techniques improve the effectiveness of products
Effective products are important in skin care, but it is also important to know how to apply them to the skin. You will not need to find new and more effective products if you learn the right skin-care techniques and know how to use products correctly.
The order in which to apply skin-care products is from the thinnest product to the thickest. Hydration of the skin starts by applying a few layers of essence to the face and neck. It is essential to let a small amount of essence absorb into the skin at a time. The number of layers depends on the condition of the skin and external conditions – cold and windy conditions require the application of more layers than warmer and more humid climates. The essence should not be applied by wiping it on with a cotton wool ball, but by dabbing it onto your skin with your hands. Applying essence with cotton wool will wipe the product off the skin. Dabbing it on will not waste the product, which means that it will last longer. The applied moisture will gradually be more effectively absorbed into the cell layers of the stratum corneum and the skin will become smoother and more supple.
Djusie essence ritual
1. Apply a few drops of essence to the palms of your hands and gently rub them together.
2. Massage the essence into your face, neck and décolleté, applying gentle pressure.
3. Add the next layer only after the previous one has been completely absorbed.
4. Do not dispense large amounts of essence at once, otherwise it will take an exasperatingly long time to get it all absorbed into your skin.
Apply facial oil to the skin after the essence. A suitable amount for the face, neck and décolleté is the amount you can get into the dropper at a time. Instead of dabbing the facial oil on your skin, apply it with caressing strokes and combine with a facial massage that warms the skin; improves skin metabolism, microcirculation and lymphatic fluid flow; and helps the oil to be absorbed into the skin more effectively.
